There is an Ibiza that almost nobody sees. It runs from November to April, when the planes stop coming, the coves empty out and the island goes back to being a place to live rather than a place to go out.
If you only know it in August, you don’t know it.
What the island is like in winter
Temperatures sit around 15–18 degrees during the day. Not beach weather, but good for walking, eating outside at lunchtime and being in the street without sweating.
Three things change at once: no queues anywhere, accommodation and car hire come down in price, and you can walk into places for lunch that in summer need to be booked days ahead. Some businesses do close, so it is worth checking before you head out.
The markets stay open
This is the best news about an Ibizan winter: the markets never stop.
Las Dalias, in Sant Carles, runs every Saturday of the year. From November to March it opens from 10am to 6pm, and the rest of the year it goes until 8pm. In low season the car park next door is free. In December it goes into Christmas mode, with mulled wine and live music.
The Sant Joan market, on Sundays. It is smaller than Las Dalias and sits right in the middle of the village, with a much more local crowd. It comes alive around midday and usually has live music.
The Sant Jordi flea market, on Saturdays. Second-hand, genuine bargains and a neighbourhood feel. This one is right on our doorstep and it is one of our favourites: you can spend an entire morning there and come back with things you never expected.
The Mercat Vell, in Ibiza town, for local produce all year round.
Walking around the island
Winter is the hiking season in Ibiza, and many local councils and groups organise free guided walks.
Going on your own works too. There are waymarked paths that lead to defence towers, lighthouses, wetlands, pine and juniper forests, and stretches of coastline that in summer you would never attempt because of the heat.
Two areas we recommend:
The Ses Salines Natural Park. In winter it is a different place. The pools fill with migratory birds and it becomes one of the best birdwatching spots in the Balearics. Flamingos tend to show up from February to May. We are right next to it and walk it all year: here is the guide to what to see in the park.
Sa Talaia and the interior. The country paths between Santa Gertrudis, Sant Mateu and Sant Agnès, with views that in August are hidden behind dust and heat.
Almond trees in bloom
If you have to choose one reason to come in winter, this is it.
Between late January and February the almond trees blossom and the interior of the island turns white and pink. Pla de Corona, in Santa Agnès, is the classic spot: a whole plain of almond trees in bloom surrounded by mountains. It lasts a few weeks and shifts from year to year, so you need to keep an eye out.
Coves to yourself
Cala Salada, Cala Conta, Cala d’Hort, Benirrás. In winter you can park right outside and not cross paths with anyone.
You are not going to swim, but walking along an empty beach with the sound of the sea behind you is one of the best things the island has to offer. And winter sunsets, with the air cleaner, are better than the summer ones.
Plans for a rainy day
It rains rarely, but it does rain. Keep the Museum of Contemporary Art and the Archaeological Museum in mind, and a walk through Dalt Vila, which with its streets empty is a completely different experience.
And the local saints’ day fiestas, which are among the most genuine things that happen here: Sant Antoni in January, Santa Agnès in February. That is where you see the real island.
Where to eat out of season
This is the catch: in winter you need to check ahead, because many places close from November to April or cut back their days.
In the south, we are open every day from 9am to 8pm, including in low season. We are in Sant Jordi de ses Salines, with our own car park, so we work well whether you want to have breakfast before a route or stop for lunch on the way back.
And yes, we still have the full menu: breakfasts, bowls, fresh juices and the Sweet Corner. Eating well is not just a summer thing.